Kayaking the Green River to Lake Union

My recent kayak camping trip re-kindled interest in getting extended exercise in the boat. I like variety in kayaking, so I was looking for a new route. And since this weekend was going to be rainy, a kayak outing would be ideal. I have also been trying to alternate my saltwater and freshwater trips. This naturally halts invasive species, and it rinses salt from my equipment.

So, I planned a trip on the Green River to the Puget Sound at Seattle (12 mi), across Elliot Bay and to the Ballard Locks (10 mi), then into the Lake Union water system (5 mi). This one-way trip would require car support, which Melanie offered to do. We got lunch in Renton and then went to Fort Dent Park in Tukwila.

I put the kayak on wheels so I could walk it to the river. It was strange that there was no prepared access to the water even though the river borders three sides of the park! I did find a spot where people had bushwhacked to the water. At the edge it was a drop-off, so I was glad to be in the dry suit, sliding the muddy river bank to get into the boat.

Once in the water, I moved along with a good current of about 1.5 mi/hr. It started (and continued) raining.

The river didn’t show evidence of much love. It was consistently just grey muddy banks, usually with faded old blackberry vines fencing off access. Although some modest houses were on the riverfront, these had no docks. Lots of light industrial buildings. It was quite meandering until it turned into the Duwamish Waterway. Then huge barges lined the banks, and the industrial buildings became super-sized.

Salt water

The Seattle waterfront was interesting. At the East Waterway docks, I watched a ship being loaded with shipping containers. The great Ferris wheel was showing geometrical light patterns that were entertaining until you memorized them. The Washington Ferry left just before I got to its docks.

Lights were on at the waterfront piers, and some people were out visiting the shops in the wet, windy, cold. At the Edgewater Hotel, there is a restaurant at the pier end. Everybody waved through the glass to the crazy guy in the water. I nodded back but kept my hands on my paddle.

The wind and the rollers were from an angle behind me, coming up from the south. When I passed by a parked ship, the wave energy was reflected back so that the water made random vertical waterspouts about head height. It was active water, and I stayed very awake. The Elliot Bay Marina was coming up, so I went behind the breakwater and stopped to get a drink. Passing through the marina was a nice respite, and the waves seemed to be more mild on the other side.

It was getting dark, but of course, the city throws out a lot of light. When I could see to the West Point Lighthouse at Discovery Park, it served as a nice heading point. On the other side, the water calmed significantly, and it was almost glassy at Shilshole Bay.

Fresh water

At the Ballard Locks, nothing was happening, so the best plan was to walk. I got out at the steps by Commodore Park and put the kayak back on wheels. When I got to the locks, I could see the small lock was out for maintenance. So I put the boat on my shoulder and walked across the gates of the two locks.

On the other side, a gal was standing outside the administration building. I told her, “I thought I was going to lock through, but when I got here, I had to choose a different adventure.” With humor, she replied, “And you didn’t get our memo that it was going to be closed until June 18th!”   So, I walked the boat through Ballard to a street-end water access.

Now I was on the home stretch, and Melanie was on her way to our meeting point. It was a steady pull through the ship canal, around Lake Union, and under I-5. Some unseen critter splashed loudly at my passing in the canal and startled me out of my meditative paddle state. As ever, there were parked boats of all sizes and values, the intermix of industry and private, marinas, houseboats with people going about life, the roar of the city, the lights of its skyline at the other end of Lake Union, and many other intriguing details.

Melanie had arrived at the Fritz Hedges Waterway Park, so I got the boat out of the water, unloaded it, and put it on the car. We stopped by Ivars on the way home to get some clam chowder. •••